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Home » TUTORIALS » LET'S SEW » Page 4

Let’s Sew 21 – ‘LILY’ Dolly

January 24, 2013 by Nanny 8 Comments

 

Today we are going to make a dolly to support the TSL DollyDrive for 2013.

I have designed a simple doll that beginners will be able to complete.  I have called her Lily!

What you will need:
Pattern – you can download the Let’s Sew Dolly pattern here. 
Felt for the hair – colour of choice (you can get 2 dolls from a sheet of felt)
Fabric for the body.  This could be a calico or a quilters cotton. ( you will get 1 and 1/2 dolls from 1 FQ)
Embroidery threads – black, eye colour, lip colour  OR
Fabric pens
Erasable Pen for marking face details (I used a PILOT Frixon Ball – available at supermarkets in Australia)
Fabric for dress – 5 and 1/2″ square
Lace trim – this is necessary to add length to the dress to make it ‘modest’ – you can just make a ruffle if you prefer
Stuffing
Let’s Sew!

1.  Take pattern and trace it off including the dots for the centre and the lines for the dress.

2.  Take the pattern and trace it and the markings onto the back of the fabric (I used a pencil).  Add 1/4″ for seams and cut out the doll shapes, back and front.

Nanny Tip:  An easy way to transfer the dots from the wrong side to the right side is to put a pin through the dot.  Turn the fabric over and mark where the pin comes through.

3.  Using an erasable pen, trace the face details onto the front of the doll matching your centre points.

4.  You can complete the face details by embroidering with 2 strands of embroidery floss or by using fabric pens.  Details for embroidery stitches here and here.

To start the embroidery, take 2 strands, tie a knot and start with your knot at least 4″ away from the start (a waste knot – thanks Jenny).

  • eye outline – backstitch
  • eyelashes – single stitch
  • eye – blanketstitch
  • nose – backstitch
  • mouth – backstitch

5.  Take the hair pattern and cut a front and a back from the felt adding a ¼” seam allowance to the outside of the head.

6.  Put hair piece onto doll head and, using the same colour thread, stitch in place around the face, close to the edge.  On the back, stitch along the neck line close to the edge.

Don’t forget the part line on the back like I’ve done!
7.  Take the lace and stitch it along the  hemline marked on the body.
8.  Take the dress fabric square and turn the top and the bottom under about 1/8″ to fit from the neck line on the pattern to the hem line.  Stitch it to the doll, front and back, close to the edge along both the neck and the hemline.
9.  Fold under 1/8″ down the sides and stitch close to the edge across the arms10.  Now turn it over and trim back to the doll shape.

11.  Take the plait pieces and stitch two together down both sides. Then stitch 3 rows , evenly spaced (about 1/4″).

12.  Repeat for the other two pieces.

13.  Trim the side stitching off and then snip up in the middle of the rows, stopping about an inch from the end.


14.  You can now plait the hair and stitch across the end to secure (about an inch from the bottom)

15.  Pin the plaits on each side of the head, with the plait across the face to match the edges.  Stitch the plait to the doll.

16.  Stitch on the line, around the top of the head for about 3″ on both the front and back ( this is where the opening will be so it will help to have the felt and fabric stitched together)

17.  With right sides facing, make sure the plaits are tucked in across the face and match up the dress neckline and hemline.   Stitch around the edge of the doll ¼” from the edge. Don’t forget to leave a 3” space for turning at the top of the head.  Repeat with a second row.

18.  Clip curves (I used pinking shears) and turn doll to right side.

19.  Roll seams between your thumbs and fingers.

20.  Press21.  Take the stuffing and stuff the legs tightly.  Work your way up the doll, stuffing firmly as you go.

22.  Close the opening with ladder stitch by hand.

Well done!  That wasn’t so bad was it – maybe now you can go ahead and make some more!  It is for a great cause so Let’s See how many Let’s Sew can make for the Dolly Drive !!

Until next time

Nanny xx

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Filed Under: LET'S SEW, SEWING/QUILTING, SIMPLE PROJECTS, TOYS, TUTORIALS

Let’s Sew 18 – Embroidery 3 – Running Stitch

January 21, 2013 by Nanny Leave a Comment

Good afternoon!

Today we will start our basic embroidery stitches by looking at the Running Stitch.  This is the easiest of stitches but can be decorative in its simplicity.  This stitch is used: to ‘tack’ pieces together while you  sew as it is easily removed;  as a gathering stitch; and in a larger size, to decorate clothing.  I also use this stitch to outline detail on padded pictures and  in my hand quilting.

What you will need:

A 8″ square of light coloured cotton – I am using quilters muslin (we will use this as a ‘sampler’adding each of our stitches and then we will use it in a project at a later date)
Crewel needle
Embroidery thread/floss – you choose the colours!
Sharp scissors
Erasable pen ( I used a Pilot Frixion Ball – available at supermarkets for a couple of dollars)

Nanny edit:  Please see new, detailed info re these pens and their use here and then decide if you want to use them

Rule

Let’s Sew!

Take the fabric square and, using your erasable pen, rule a line across at 2″ from the top, starting and finishing 1″ in from the side edges.
Cut a 12-15″ length of thread and separate 2 strands
Thread the needle.

If you are right handed, you will start on the right and stitch towards the left.  Likewise, if you are left handed, you will start at the left and stitch towards the right.  I will give instructions for right handed – if you are a           ‘lefty’ just make the change.

Now because we are completing a sampler, we will  use a double stitch to secure the beginning;

Insert your needle from the right side about 1/4″from the start of the stitching line and take a small stitch, leaving a ‘tail’ of thread out to the edge of the fabric.

Repeat to form a stitch
Repeat again, this time coming up at the start of the sewing line.

Take a stitch (about 1/8″) and bring the needle up the same distance ahead (I am twisting the needle so you can see)

You have made a running stitch.

Continue  down, up, down, to the end of the row

Take the needle down at the end of the line and back out 1/4″ away.

Take a small stitch towards the side and repeat to finish.

Trim thread to edge of fabric. (Which I haven’t done yet)

We can decorate this simple stitch by either ‘weaving’ it or ‘whipping’ it!
Mark a line and complete another row of running stitch at 5″ from the top.

Take a length of a different coloured thread, separate 4 strands and thread the needle.

Start with a small stitch right beside the double stitch of the running stitch

Repeat and bring the needle up half way between the double stitch and the start of the running stitch

To ‘weave’ the running stitch, we are going to work on the top of the fabric (you do not take the needle through the fabric).  You will just slip your needle under the running stitch from the top

Now slip it under the next running stitch from the bottom

Then the top

Continue working  across the running stitches weaving up and down to the end.

Finish with a double stitch and trim the thread to the edge of the fabric

Change the colour again, still using 4 strands, and move to the other row of running stitch.

Start the same way, with a double stitch coming up half way between the double knot and the first stitch.

We will ‘whip’ the running stitch in the same way as the ‘weave’ except we will  be going under each stitch from the top each time.

Finish with a double stitch and trim the threads to the edge of the fabric.

Tip: When you press embroidery, you press the back of the fabric!

All the lines disappear with the heat (you have to love these pens!!)

You have made a great start!  I hope you enjoyed this little taste of embroidery ……

Until next time
Nanny xx

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Filed Under: EMBROIDERY, LET'S SEW, SEWING/QUILTING, TUTORIALS

Let’s Sew 17 – Embroidery 2 – Starting and finishing

January 16, 2013 by Nanny 3 Comments

Good evening!

I want to show you something that I just found – examples of my work from primary school days (over 50 years ago – but don’t tell! )

Don’t you love it!  A needle case, a draw string bag to hold our sewing gear and a placemat – maybe this was a 50’s mug mat!!

Today I am going to show you how to start and finish your embroidery so that it does not come undone and then you will be able to show it to someone in 50 years time!

The Knot
This is perhaps the easiest way to start any stitching.  With 3 strands, thread your needle and in one end, tie a knot.

An easy way to do this is to wrap the end around your pointer finger until it overlaps

Cover the overlap with your thumb and roll it between your finger and thumb a couple of times

Now holding the twists between your thumb  and middle finger( a fingernail helps), slide them to the left and

Ta da!  You have a knot!

The disadvantages of the knot are that it could come undone and it looks a little unsightly.

One way to make use of the knot is to use it away from your work.  Let me explain…….

I want to stitch on the blue line so I will put my
needle through to the back about 4″ (10cm) away from where I want to start.

Bring the needle back to the front where you want
to start

Stitch to the end and put needle through to the back

 Pass the needle under the last stitch and through the
loop formed to make a knot

                                                                                       Oversew a couple of stitches and trim the thread
Now that’s nice and neat!

 Snip the starting knot from the front


Turn to the back and finish this end off the same way – loopknot, oversew and snip.

Finished back,

Finished front.

This is the method of starting and finishing that we will be using in the making of the Let’s Sew Dolly!

Until next time
Nanny xx

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Let’s Sew 16 – Embroidery 1 – Preparation

January 15, 2013 by Nanny 5 Comments

Today we are starting a little series on basic hand embroidery .  I do not claim to be an expert embroiderer, but I do enjoy being able to add that element to my projects. You too will be able to use these skills as you embellish your sewing projects. 
 
Many have been left with unpleasant memories of ‘school sewing’ and avoid hand stitching but Nanny will show you how easy it really is!
The first thing in our series will be to look at the equipment and then at some basic ‘getting ready to embroider’ tips.
1.Thread or embroidery floss:

How to purchase Embroidery Thread or Floss.
 
When I mention embroidery thread (sometimes called floss), I am referring to the 6 stranded thread that comes in a skein.  It is held together by two paper labels.

 The top label shows the number 25 – this tells you it is the six stranded thread

The bottom label also has a number and this is the colour number.

2. Needles
Embroidery needles are also called Crewel needles.  They have a larger eye necessary to thread the strands of embroidery floss/thread.

 How to store your embroidery floss/thread:

You can purchase these cardboard cards (or make your own)

Remove the paper wrappers from each end of the skein

Write the colour number on your card

Open the loop of thread, making sure that all loops are open.  You will see down at the bottom that some of mine are still not opened yet
– I will fix these before I go on.

Tuck end of thread into slit in card

Wind thread onto card, spreading along the card and back

When finished, tuck end into other slit in card

Pop into your container (and watch your collection grow!)

How long to cut your threads for embroidery
 
Once again this will vary with personal preference, how large the section to be embroidered is etc.  A good length is about 12″ (30cm)- 15″ (39cm).  You will find this manageable and so less likely to end up in knots!
How to Separate the Strands of Embroidery Floss/Thread
 
When you embroider you may use a different number of strands of thread.  The number will be determined by the effect you want it to have. I  generally  use 2 or 3 strands.
People have many interesting ways of separating the strands – all designed to avoid knotting! This is a simple technique for you – it works for me!
Take the end of the thread and separate the strands – you should see 6!

Hold the thread so it lies along in your hand,close your fingers around the thread and grip it firmly  Pull the strands you selected and you will notice it start to bunch up at the bottom of your hand.  That is OK!!
Keep pulling until your strands are free BUT don’t let the thread in your hand  go.  You will end up with a big bunch.
Take the ends showing at the bottom of your hand and, while still holding your hand firm,  pull the thread out straight again.  Wasn’t that simple!

Now find a design you like so we can start stitching!
Until next time
Nanny xx

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Let’s Sew : Boxer Shorts – a tutorial

December 13, 2012 by Nanny 2 Comments

 

Today we are going to make a pair of boxer shorts or loose-fitting shorts with elastic waist.  It is easy to make your own pattern if you have a pair of shorts the right size.
 
I am making my grandson a pair of pyjama  lounge shorts using a poly satin.
 
What was I thinking!!!!  This fabric is ghastly but I will soldier on cause he lubs me!!.  I wouldn’t recommend  this fabric if you are not confident as it is very slippery and frays like mad!  That said, if you wish to give it a try, follow along.
If you choose other fabric, I would recommend a fine cotton or even seersucker (the one that’s bubbly like Grandmas tablecloths ) I will add alternate instructions for cotton as is appropriate.
 
What you will need:
Fabric the length of your required shorts
3/4” elastic
Pattern for elastic waisted shorts
 
Let’s sew!
 
NOTE:  When sewing satin like fabric,it is best to use a sharp needle to prevent snagging or pulling of threads across your garment.  Avoid using pins if possible unless they are very fine and sharp and then only pin in the seams.
 
Take your fabric and fold (selvedge to selvedge way) but only as wide as you need for your pattern.  Place your pattern where we wrote ‘place on the fold’ onto the fold.  You should not see any of the fabric when the pattern is placed correctly. ( Don’t you just love my hair clips!!)  You will need to cut two of these as each piece forms a leg.
 
 
I am now going to finish the edges all around each piece to stop the fraying.   If you have a serger/overlocker you can use it but, because I know that many of you dont have one, I will use a zigzag.  Test your zigzag on a scrap first.
Cotton: You do not need to do this step
 

 

I am also going to use French Seams to give strength and protection to the seams. A French Seam starts by putting wrong side to wrong side.  The seam allowance in this pattern is 3/8″ so I am going to stitch the inner leg seam right beside my zigzag at about 1/8″.
Cotton:  if you are using a fine cotton, you may decide to use this seam finish as well but if you are using a thicker cotton, check the end of this for alternate instructions.
 
 
Trim away the stray strands and turn the fabric so that right side is to right side and then sew a 1/4″ seam. 
 
Now that will stop that little seam fraying!!
 
If you are using a cotton, I would suggest you use a flat felled seam.  Stitch your seam the same way with wrong sides together.  
Press the seam as stitched to set the seam.  Trim ONE side of the seam to  1/8.”

 

 

Fold the larger side over to the seam line and press.

 

 

 

Then fold it over so that it sits flat and pin.
Stitch along the edge
 
This will give you a flat finish with no exposed edges to be ‘scratchy’ that is extremely hard wearing – just what you need!
Repeat for the other leg and you now have this:
 
Turn one leg inside out and put it inside the other leg, with wrong sides together.
 

 

 Now complete a French Seam, taking care in the crotch area, that you put the seam lines together and lay one leg seam to the left and the other to the right to reduce bulk.
 
 
Trim and turn. Stitch a 1/4″ seam.  You now have this!  Starting to look like pants??
Cotton:  Complete another Flat Felled Seam  taking care that in the crotch area, you put the seam lines together. 

 

You would not use this on sharper curves but the crotch curve is only slight and so works fine.
 
Now turn the top over 1 and 1/4″ and stitch close to the edge.  (You can see that I am using my Stitch in the Ditch Foot.)  There is no need to pin – just work your way along.
Now, with that stitching holding the top, fold under the raw edge and stitch measuring 1″ to form the casing.  Leave an opening to put the elastic in.
 
 

Hem both legs – you can check your length and adjust – I used a 1/4″ turn and then again (don’t have to be exact) and stitch near the edge.
Measure your elastic (once again check with your little one), slip on a safety pin and thread into the casing.
 

 
Overlap the ends of the elastic, taking care that it isn’t twisted and stitch  securely. Trim excess.
 

Pull into the casing and finish stitching the casing closed.
That was easy wasn’t it!!

 
I think my little man will just love these and the scraps make me think of Wonder Woman – maybe his twin sister will like that!!  
 
Until next time
Nanny xx

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