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Make a Hexagon Storage Pouch

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Do you wonder how to store your hexagon templates?  Let me show you how to make a hexagon storage pouch. This is a simple, hand stitched project but it could be stitched on machine if you so desired.

Hexagon storage pouch
Hexagon storage pouch

Nanny note:  I made this to fit my hexagon template set of 8 templates ranging from 1.5″ to 5″ (width) or  3/4″ to 2.5″ (side measurement)

What you need:

Pattern – you can get it here  Templates for my Hexagon Storage Pouch

Fabric scraps – I used 5′ charm squares for the triangles but you will see by the size of the pattern pieces that you can use much smaller scraps

7″ x 7.5″ rectangle for larger hexagon

6″ x 5.5″ rectangle for smaller hexagon

Medium weight fusible wadding – I used Vilene H640

What you do:

  1. Print off pattern
  2. Cut 1 of each of the large and small hexagon shapes from your fabric rectangles
  3. Using the small triangle shape and scrap fabrics, cut 6.  I used 5″charm squares and cut them all at the same time with a rotary cutter.

I was able to cut both size triangles from one charm. (and made more scraps 😉    )

4.  Press medium weight fusible wadding onto the back of each small triangle.

5.  Decide how you want to mix the large and small triangles

6.  Baste them, wrong side together, with a large stitch and trim each corner off to 1/2″

7.  Fold the edge of the large triangle into the edge of the small triangle and then fold over again

8.  Stitch along the edges taking care at the corners.

9.  Do the same thing with your hexagon shapes – you can check the method here

10.  Place the triangles to form a hexagon and stitch 4 together and the other 2 together – I used a ladder stitch.

11.  Stitch them to the hexagon shape to form the pouch and add a little ribbon to tie closed.

12.  Add your hexagon templates and relax, knowing that they will be protected and easy to find.

I hope you will enjoy making my Hexagon storage pouch.  I would love to see it so please tell me and share a photo.

Until next time

Nanny xx

 

 

 

Knit an Infinity Scarf

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Knit an Infinity Scarf

Some time ago I was fortunate to win an Instagram giveaway offered by Kathryn at The Australian wool Store.  I won a hand dyed skein of beautiful 100% Superwash Merino. I was so thrilled with the prize that I decided to  knit an Infinity Scarf for myself and to find a pattern I looked to spin the pins. So here it is –  my Spin the Pins  to knit an Infinity Scarf.

I decided on a scarf but thought that it would need to be ‘lacy’ to ensure that I had enough (being hand dyed the skein is unique).

I should tell you that I was experiencing a bad ‘Fibro’ time so that’s my excuse!  I was at the local Spotlight store and thought “Oh I need some circular needles – mm I think it was size 19” and so home I came with 19mm needles.

I  started to wonder when I couldn’t find the pattern that I was so sure used 19mm needles (I thought Pinterest must have hidden it!!) so I thought I would experiment a little.  You can see that I had wound the skein into a lovely woollen ball.

Well that was a  big NO-NO (read failure) but you have to love the fluro green needles!

I searched the pins again and decided on the Emerald Isle Cowl by Linda at Natural Suburbia.

I finally got back to the shops to end up with the right size needles and started again.  I think over the next few days I knitted, unpulled, knitted, unpulled until Poppy said ” I’d just put the scissors through it!”  I explained (very patiently) that it was not about the unpulling and restarting but rather the process. It was making me feel like I was doing something useful while the rain continued and the fibro flared and it was actually keeping my mind busy.  I know fellow fibro warriors will appreciate my efforts.

Anyway, I did get started, I did continue and I did complete my project.

I  followed the pattern as stated. (I should add my problems were not due to the pattern – just my fibromyalgia and foggy brain)

I  reminded myself of these things to think about when using circular needles:

  1. When you join the cast on stitches, you want to use a method that will avoid a gap etc.
  2.  Before you join the cast on stitches, make sure you have no twists in the length.  I think it is easier to see what I mean in this photo

I loved it when the  pattern began emerging

and I loved how the colours were appearing.

To avoid the “Oh I hope I don’t run out before I cast off” thoughts, I decided that I should prepare for the casting off requirements. As I was using wool from the centre of my ball, I took the other end and measured out 4 x the length of the project, rolled it up and secured it and continued on with confidence.

The pattern was looking great – open,  with a little bit of interest, without taking away from the effect of the gorgeous hand dyed wool.

When It was time to cast off I decided to try a new method (to me) as demonstrated by Knit Purl Hunter called Grandma’s Favorite Bind Off (Loose Bind Off) . 

I used a larger needle and it worked beautifully.

So, after all that, I am happy to report that I did finish my Infinity Scarf and I love it!

Thank you to Australian wool Store for the gorgeous Merino wool, Linda for the easy to follow pattern and Knit Purl Hunter for the great video instruction – what a great Spin the Pins!

Until next time

Nanny xx

9 Patch Sampler Quiltalong Completion

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Today we will take a look at the processes involved in the 9 Patch Sampler Quiltalong Completion.  These are pinning the quilt, quilting and then binding the quilt.

Pinning (or Basting) the Quilt

1.  Press the backing well and lay right side down onto your floor or table.

2.  Using your tape, tape the backing to the floor or table.  Pull it taught but don’t stretch it.

3.  Place your batting on the backing

4.  Place your well pressed quilt top, right side up on top of the wadding.

5.  Pin the quilt.

You will find a detailed description of the pinning process I use here. 

Quilting

  1. Decide how you want to quilt –

Stitch in the ditch – where you stitch along the ‘ditch’ formed by the seams.

Straight lines – following seams or diagonals

Free Motion Quilting

I will be using Straight lines and you can see details of the method I use here and here

2.  Have fun!

I decided to draw up a plan:

I started at the centre and worked my way out.  I decided to use black thread.

Front

and back

Binding

  1. Choose your binding fabric – I have chosen a stripe.
  2. Decide if you are going to apply your binding totally by machine (you sew it to the back first) or if you would prefer to hand stitch your binding (sew it to the front first) . The only difference in process is whether you start at the front or back of the quilt.
  3. Trim your quilt
  4. Prepare  the binding
  5. Apply the binding

You will can see the method I use here.

and I have to be happy with the stripe matching in the join at the end!

Congratulations!  That is the 9 Patch Sampler Quiltalong Completion.

I hope you have enjoyed our Quilt Along and that you are happy with your new quilt!

Don’t forget to give your quilt a label – I am calling mine ‘9 Patch Sampler in Black & White’ – now that’s original!! I would love to see your 9 patch sampler completed so please send me a photo so I can share the results.

I have had a fun time and am open to ideas for our next venture.

Until next time

Nanny xx

WEEK 1: Make a 9 patch sampler

WEEK 2:  Make a Railfence Variation

WEEK 3: Make Half Square Triangles

WEEK 4: Make a Shoo Fly Block

WEEK 5: Make a Friendship Star

WEEK 6: Make a Contrary Wife Block

WEEK 7: Make a Spool Block

WEEK 8: Make a Churn Dash Block

WEEK 9: Make a Formal Garden Block

WEEK 10: Make a Greek Cross Block

WEEK 11: Make a Chevron Block

WEEK 12:  Make a Birds in the Air Block

WEEK 13:  Make a Double 9 Patch Block

WEEK 14:  Make a Card Trick Block

WEEK 15: Make an Ohio Star Block

WEEK 16: Make Your own Block

WEEK 17: Complete the top

WEEK 18:  Backing with a Disappearing 9 patch

WEEK 19:  Completion of the 9 patch sampler

 

Backing your 9 Patch Sampler with a Disappearing 9 Patch

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Today I am going to show you an option for backing your 9 patch Sampler.

You can purchase special backing fabric which is wide enough to cover the back of your quilt but you often find that you cant find anything suitable.  Eventhough I had purchased some backing fabric, I decided it might be fun to show you a pieced back.

I decided that I would make one more 9 patch block using plain black and white.  I cut 5 x black 21″ squares and 4 x white 21″ squares.  They were a bit too large to photograph in total.

I plan to use this 9 patch to create a Disappearing 9 Patch Block.

The Disappearing 9 Patch Block is a very popular block as it is simple in construction but looks interesting and varied.

Normally you would make a Disappearing 9 patch block by making your 9 patch. You would then cut it vertically and horizontally through the centre like this:

Now because my black and white squares are so large, I’m going to cut them up before I make my 9 patch.  My tapes show where I will be cutting:

So I now have 4 x  black 21′ squares,  1 x black square cut into 4 x 10.5″ squares and 4 x white squares cut in half.

I will now sew each quarter by joining the small black square to a white and the large black square to the other white and then join them to form our quarter block.  I will repeat that to complete all four quarters.

I now turn the quarters to choose a layout.  Here they are all facing the same way:

and here the opposite large black squares are tuned towards the centre or corners. I will now join the 4 in this layout to complete the block and hence the backing.

My completed Disappearing 9 Patch Block all ready for a good press.

I am really pleased with my Disappearing 9 patch – I think it will make a great backing for my 9 patch sampler!

Until next time

Nanny xx

All tutorials for the Quiltalong can be found here.

Complete the 9 Patch Sampler quilt top

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Well here we are!  Now  all we have to do  is complete the  9 Patch Sampler quilt top!

This is where we get to see the importance of the accurate 1/4″ seams that you used to sew your 4.5″ squares together.  Just as we trimmed all squares of the 9 patch to 4.5″ to ensure that they went together quickly and easily, we now do the same with our blocks. It is by careful measuring, cutting and sewing and then trimming as you go, that you will have 16 blocks that all measure 12.5″ square.

I entered my blocks into ‘Quiltology’ to show you my trials with sashing (the strips between the blocks) and cornerstones (the little squares at the corner of the blocks).

White sashing with black cornerstones:

Black sashing with a white cornerstone:

No sashing:

I decided that I liked the no sashing option best and I am going to add a plain  border.

NANNY NOTE: The final layout and construction of the quilt top will be a personal choice and will depend on your fabric design and colours .

If you have decided on the ‘no sashing’  option continue on:

  1.  I suggest you take a photo of your layout for future reference and then mark the blocks across the top into rows 1-4.
  2. Following your layout, join the 4 blocks in row 1 matching the seams as we did in making our 9 patches.  Then join the 4 in row 2, row 3 and row 4.
  3. Press the seams in opposite directions ie row 1 press up, row 2 press down, row 3 press up and row 4 press down.
  4. Join the rows, matching the seams.

This is mine and I’m thinking ‘Why did I put that one there?’  Don’t worry if this happens, as I seem to see things differently depending on the weather and my pain levels!  Will it matter in the long run where you put each block?  The answer is No – it will just make it your unique creation!

If you choose to add sashing:

  1. Cut strips 2.5″ (or the width you want)
  2.  Cross cut strips into 24 pieces 12.5″ long
  3.  Cut 9 x 2.5″(or matching your sashing width) squares for cornerstones
  4. Join each of the blocks in row 1 (see instructions above) with a 12.5″ sashing. So Block/sashing/block/sashing/block/sashing/block.   Repeat for row 2,3 and 4
  5. Join 4 sashing pieces with a cornerstone between each ( you will have 4 sashing pieces and 3 cornerstone squares – sashing/cornerstone/sashing/cornerstone/sashing/cornerstone/sashing).  Repeat two more times.
  6. Matching the seams, join a sashing/cornerstone strip to the right hand side of row 1, 2 and 3
  7.  Now join all of the rows to complete your quilt top.

Adding a border and/or a sashing strip (the process is the same)

I am adding a 6.5″ border to mine.

  1.  Cut 6 x 6.5″ wof strips
  2.  Join strips across the short ends
  3.   Measure your quilt top along the sides and through the middle – it will be approx 48.5″ (no sashing)
  4.  Cut 2 strips of border to the length of  your measurement
  5. Take your border piece and by folding, mark 1/2 and then fold again to mark 1/4 (I use pins)

6.   Do the same with your quilt top – marking along both sides.

7.  Match up your pins on the border and quilt top and pin.

8.   Sew border to quilt top.

NANNY NOTE:   I am sewing on the quilt top side so I can see where the seams meet to ensure that I end up with all of my points in tact!  We talked about this when we made the Chevron Block here 

9.  Press.

10.   Now repeat from Number 3-8 to add the top and bottom border.  This method will  result in a nicely fitted border that sits flat.

Congratulations on finishing your quilt top!  Next week we will look at preparing the backing.

Until next time

Nanny xx

 

 

© Nannycraft4u

All content and images belong to Nannycraft4u unless otherwise indicated. You are welcome to link back to my blog, but you may not copy whole posts, tutorials or photos without my permission. Please give credit for my work and link back to the original post at Nannycraft4u.com If you use one of my ideas, I would love to know about it. Designs and tutorials are for personal use only.