QUILTING TUTORIALS Archives - Page 5 of 12

Dream to Achieve – Walking Foot Quilting Ideas

August 15, 2015 by Nanny 7 Comments

Hi!

Today I thought I would share some Dream to Achieve – Walking foot quilting ideas.

It is such an exciting time – you have cut, pieced and stitched all the pieces together and you have basted the finished top, batting and backing and then you think EEk how will I quilt this?

Quilting design is such an individual thing but I think the following things are important to consider:

1. Does the quilt design lend itself to heavy quilting or selective quilting?

2. Heavily quilted quilts will not be as ‘cuddly’ as a less quilted one.

3. There are so many lovely quilting designs available but does your favourite one suit the quilt you are working on. eg would you put ‘feathers’ on a sharp,geometric design?

4. Will the chosen design ADD to the overall quilt design or will it ‘swamp’ it?

You really need to take a step back, breathe and look closely at your quilt top and fabrics involved and then consider your options. You also need to consider your quiltig experience – if you have never tried Free Motion Quilting, I would suggest you start on smaller projects like placemats. to perfect your technique.

Today I will be looking at quilting with your walking Foot. Many think you can only sew straight lines with a Walking Foot, but with a little thought , many options are available to the quilter.

If we look at the original Dream to Achieve quilt, you can see the following – all done with a walking foot:

1. Following fabric design lines:

2. Using a shape to make a template:

3. Following fabric design curves:

4. Choosing overall to compliment the fabric design – turtle/water

Now to my current Quilt Along Quilt:

I think I will use the circles and squares shapes in the first fabric, the wavy lines from the stripe and maybe do something with the butterflies!

We have already stitched in the ditch around all sashing and so we have smaller blocks all secured and ready to quilt! I will use the small areas to show you some options that you may like to try!

How to Sew Straight Lines with your Walking Foot

If you want to sew a line eg from corner to corner, the easiest way to mark your line is with masking tape. Just remember to place it just to the side of the required line to allow for the stitching:

I will now add another diagonal to complete this square!

How to sew more than one line with your walking foot:

Once you have your straight line, it is easy to add more by

a) adding more tape at required distance OR

b) using the width of your walking foot and moving your needle OR

c) using a quilting guide.

With your walking Foot, you would have seen a piece like this:

You just lay it across the slit at the back

and press down until it clicks into place

Now you just slide it across to the width you want and sew with the guide following along the straight line you started with!

So I am setting my gauge at the same width as the finished sashing so it will be easy to see – I quite like the way it looks! I started at one edge using the same method as in the previous post.

Now of course you can add more lines if you want to – I have decided to leave it like this.

How to use the width of the walking foot:

I will do another one now using the width of the walking foot to sew around the edge of the square and then I will freehand some lines across and down:

In this one I will sew a diagonal using the tape and then, using the width of the walking foot, spiral around each triangle:

How to sew a 6 pointed STAR with your walking foot:

Maybe you would like a star! Divide all sides in half and the right and left sides into quarters.

This is sewn in one motion, starting and ending on the left side.

How to sew a more WONKY STAR with your walking foot:

Maybe you would prefer a less structured star! Divide the top in half and the sides into thirds (approx as this will be determined by how wonky you want it) and start and finish in the left bottom corner.

How to sew a SQUARE SPIRAL with your walking foot:

Now I’m thinking a spiral – let’s start with the square and using our guide set at the same width as before:

How to sew a CIRCULAR SPIRAL with a walking foot:

Now to try a circular spiral!

Trace a circle that fits the space (Im using a plate and tracing it using a sliver of soap)

I will start sewing from the centre at the top:

Now for the long blocks, I’m going to do wavy lines, so I will roll the quilt from both sides (like we did here) and just wave my way from one edge to the other

For the feature stripe, I am going to some butterfly shapes!

I hope this has given you some ideas for quilting your quilt using a walking foot! Don’t forget to share a photo in the Facebook Album of Flickr to be in the next Gift Pack Draw! Great going! You are nearly finished – just the binding to go – well done!

Until next time

Nanny xx

Spin the Pins – Make a Hexie Bag

August 3, 2015 by Nanny 14 Comments

As you would now be aware, I co-ordinate fabric swaps for Australian residents through my Facebook page ‘Nannyswapz’.

When planning a swap with hexies, I try to find a project by spinning the pins so that participants have a purpose in mind before the swap proceeds. On my Hexies board I found a hexie bag that used 16 hexagons and so built our swap around that. We swapped Rainbow Batik hexies and I am going to use them to make my hexie bag. So here is my Spin the Pins – Make a Hexie Bag!

I decided that rather than sewing the bag and then lining it, I would hand stitch each hexie and then join them. I also decided to make my own version re the shape and so made another 4 hexies to give me a total of 20.

What you need:

20 x 2.5″ (side) hexagons ( Hexie Bag Templates)

20 x 2.5″ (side) hexagons of Vilene

20 x hexagons (Hexie Bag Templates

Matching thread

Finished size: Approx 15″ x 13″ at the centre and 9″ at the sides plus handle

Let’s Sew!

1. Iron the vilene to the back of the hexies

2. I then machined around the outer edges

3. Centre that hexie , wrong side to wrong side on one of the larger hexies. I used a large needle through the centre to hold them together.

4. Fold the edge of the large hexie into the edge of the smaller hexie and finger press.

5. Fold over again and pin

6. Take a threaded needle and knot the end. Concealing the knot, start stitching about 1″ from the corner (or from my finger in the photo) and stitch to about where the stitching line will be on the next side.

7. Fold the next side the same way, making sure that the corner forms nicely.

8. Continue in this way until you are all the way around. Finish off and slip the needle through the border to finish.

9. Complete all 20 hexies in the same manner.

10. Play around with the hexies until you are happy with the setting out of 2 flower shapes (the front and back of the bag)

11. Take the centre hexie and one other.

12. With right sides together, stitch along one edge. (I used a whip stitch)

13. Take the next hexie (yellow) and join the edge to the centre hexie (aqua)

14. Continue joining all of the hexies to the centre and then join along the adjoining sides to complete the ‘flower

15. Repeat with the other ‘flower’

16. Now from the other 6 hexies, choose two to go on the end of the flowers:

Here

and here

17. Take the 4 and stitch the pairs together

and then join them to the ‘flowers’

Like this:

and this:

18. Now join the two ‘flowers’

and the complete the ‘circle’ by joining here

19. Now you get to make a choice – how do you want your bag to be finished?

With the handle coming from the centre? (from the yellow) If so, you will add the other two hexagons as shown.

On the other hand, you may prefer your bag handles to come from the sides like this. If so you will add the extra two hexagons as shown.

I am making my bag for a specific reason ie to hang on the arm rest in the motorhome to hold my knitting, (It really is time for that shopping bag to go), and so

I have decided to have my handle come from the centre of the bag. This will ensure that it hangs ‘flat’ and not protrude into the walkway.

One side

and the other

20. To make your handle, you will cut a strip 3″” x twice the length you want it to be plus 0.5″. I measured mine and will make it 16″. This will also be a good length to hang over my arm when taking it outside to crafting sessions.

21. Cut a piece of vilene 2.5″ x the length of your handle and iron it onto the wrong side

22. With right sides together, sew around the edges leaving a space to turn it through. Clip corners.

23. Turn to right side, roll seams between your fingers and thumbs and press. Stitch around the edge 1/4″ from the edge and then some rows of stitching the length of the handle.

24. Join handle to the bag. I’m using whip stitch again. You could, of course, stitch it to the top hexie using your machine if you prefer.

Now to load it up with my knitting needle roll, a pair of snips, a needle size gauge and a darning needle and my current project – all that I need, exactly where I need it!

Perfect!! Start the engines PJ – Nanny is ready to hit the road.

Until next time

Nanny xx

‘Dream to Achieve’ – Quilting the Quilt

August 2, 2015 by Nanny 2 Comments

'Dream to Achieve' I'm Quilting Along With Nanny — ‘

Today it is time to get to ‘Dream to Achieve’ – Quilting the Quilt!

Prepare your machine:

We will be using a walking foot:

To attach the walking foot, you need to unscrew the foot screw and remove the foot on your machine. Attach the walking foot making sure you put the white handle ABOVE the needle screw .

Select your thread – I am using a variegated thread (Wonderfil Silco)

Fill some bobbins and thread the machine.

I use a stitch length of 3 and if your machine has a needle down switch, this is a good time to use it! You can see mine lit up:

If you don’t have this, that is OK – just remember to turn the needle down before stopping to remove pins etc.

Do a test sew along one of the edges to check your tension and adjust if necessary.

Let’s Quilt:

Nanny note: This is not the only way to quilt this quilt – this is how I have chosen to do it. By following my example, you will be stitching either side of all sashing strips which will in effect, divide the quilt into sections and stabilise the quilt sandwich for further quilting.

1. I am starting by stitching down the edge of the feature strip. I will stitch in the ditch. Now because I’m not starting from the edge of the quilt, I want to tie off the threads (I will bury them later). When I bring both threads to the top, I avoid ‘bird nest clumps’ happening on the back. I start by lowering the needle in the corner of the sashing strips and holding the needle thread:

Then I pull on that thread to raise the bobbin thread – my finger is showing the loop:

Pull the bobbin thread to the top:

Lower the needle again into the corner spot

Take both threads to the back and lower the foot and start stitching in the ditch. Don’t be too worried about being ‘exact’ here – you may run onto the edge or out a bit from the edge – that is OK! It will not be visible in the overall finish. If you don’t believe me, step away from the quilt a bit and see if it is obvious! Like any skill, this takes time and practice to get it so don’t be too hard on yourself!

If you find yourself coming to a pin, stop and lower the needle by turning the wheel by hand

Remove the pin and keep going

When I get to the end of the row, I want to save my thread ends to finish off later too, so I sew to the corner and go one stitch over

Cut the thread and bring the bobbin thread to the top as before

Nanny tips:

a) Remove the pins when you have sewn both sides of the sashing – this will make your quilt lighter!

b) Roll your quilt on both ends, to make turning and stitching easier

2. Now turn the quilt and sew down the other side of the sashing, starting at the end you just finished on.

3. Repeat so that both sides of the feature strip are stitched.

4. Now roll your quilt from both ends (as above) and go to one of the central strips and starting at the sashing line we just sewed, stitch from the feature strip to the outside of the quilt. Turn and go back up the other side of the sashing.

5. Repeat this until all sashing strips have been stitched. This is my back showing the sashing lines joining:

We have now secured the quilt sandwich in sections and it’s time to decide how to quilt those sections!

Well I’m off to finish off those threads and give my back a break! You can see how I do that here.

Until next time

Nanny xx

‘Dream to Achieve’ Pinning the Quilt

July 18, 2015 by Nanny Leave a Comment

Hi!

We now have our quilt top finished and have collected the list of items suggested so let’s get to ‘Dream to Achieve’ Pinning the Quilt shall we?

As mentioned before, if you are having your quilt professionally quilted, you will need to check with the quilter re the size of the backing required as they need extra to attach the quilt to the frame.

I make sure I have a couple of inches all the way around the quilt top and find that is ample.

For my backing, I am using quilting cotton from the same range as the front ‘Galaxy’ by Sue Penn for Fine Lines. I have 3metres and will cut it in half. I will then join the pieces along the selvedges to form a piece large enough to be the backing.

1. Press the backing well and lay right side down onto your floor or table.

2. Using your tape, tape the backing to the floor or table. Pull it taught but don’t stretch it.

3. Place your batting on the backing

4. Place your well pressed quilt top, right side up on top of the wadding.

5. Pin the quilt.

You will find a detailed description of the pinning process I use here.

Don’t forget to share a photo when you have finished your ‘Dream to Achieve’ Pinning the Quilt on the Facebook page or Flickr to be in the running for the next Gift Pack,

Until next time

Nanny xx

‘Dream to Achieve’ quilting preparations

June 24, 2015 by Nanny 1 Comment

Now that we have our quilt tops, it is time to think about the next stage – sandwiching the quilt! So let’s take a look at ‘Dream to Achieve’ quilting preparations:

You will need:

Your quilt top

Wadding

Backing

Pins – these are curved and come in packets of different quantities. You will need about 160 – 200 OR you may choose to use Basting Spray (I have never considered using it as, with Fibromyalgia, I am super sensitive to chemicals)

Tape – this is packing tape but anything like masking tape is Ok too!

A spoon – just a spoon!

Now is a also good time to think about how you might quilt your new quilt. If we go back to my original:

I wanted to quilt this using my walking foot, (I suggest you beg, borrow or buy one AFTER you check in your accessories box) If you need to buy one, take a record of your machine name and model number so that you can check that you get one that fits!!

If you want to try Free Motion Quilting, by all means do – you might have a foot in your accessories so check there first!!

I used black thread on both the top and the bobbin. When you are starting out, it is a good idea to use the same colour so that any little tension issues are not obvious. So, consider your own quilt top and backing and make a selection. There are so many colours available – a variegated thread also provides an interesting finish across multiple colours. I will probably choose a colour that ‘sits right’ with my sashing.

When I looked at the quilt, I let the fabric design guide me:

On the ‘hands’ block, I traced my hand and used that as a template and twisted and turned it across the strip. The turtles I let ‘swim’ in water waves and I followed the diagonal stripes in the other. The other I followed the circle and joining ‘track’

In the sashing, I stitched in the ditch and then eye balled other lines – I didn’t want it to look all ‘exact’ !

So as you can see, the quilting part is totally an individual choice. You might choose to do all straight lines. The most important thing is that you give it a go and have FUN!

I hope this helps you prepare for the next task.

Until next time

Nanny xx

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