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Needled!!

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Hi everyone!

When I go travelling in the Motorhome, I like to take my craft with me.  How to carry my knitting needles?  At home they stand up in a cardboard tube but that wouldn’t work in the confined space so Nanny had to get thinking!!

I had a set of placemats so I took one and with some thought, fashioned a knitting needle roll!

The flap at the top folds over the needles so that they cannot fall out and then it rolls up and ties!
A crafty friend saw said roll and commented “Yes, you can make me one of those please!”
As I am catching up with this friend tomorrow, I thought it time I got busy and that I would share the making with you:
You need:
A placemat
A fat 1/4 of coordinating fabric
Something to act as lining – I used calico because that’s what I could find!!
In between the taking of this photo and the next stage, the fabric changed – not sure how or why, but I guess the universe knew something I didn’t!! lol
So, measure the length of your placemat – mine was 19″ – add 1/2″ and cut a rectangle 191/2″ x 11″.  Cut a piece of calico or lining the same size.  With right sides together, sew around the outside leaving a gap to turn it through.  Snip corners and turn right side out.
Roll seams between your thumbs and fingers and then press.  Then topstitch about 1’4″ from the edge along the long side opposite your opening. This will be the top of the holder, where you insert the needles.

You then position the rectangle on the placemat and using a walking foot (if you have one) sew around the other three sides ie the sides and the bottom.
It now has to be divided up into slots for the needles.  I did 7 at 5/8″, 13 at 9/8″ and then divided the remainder in half to make two larger slots.  I used the walking foot and sewed from the bottom up.
Now take the remainder of the fabric fat 1/4 and cut a strip about 8″ wide (this will be determined by your piece of fabric) and a strip about 1 3/4″ wide for the tie.
Fold the 8″ piece in half with right sides together and press.  Then stitch around edge leaving gap for turning right side out.  Clip corners, turn right side out, roll between thumbs and fingers and press.  Topstitch around the 3 sides as far from the edge as you are comfortable – mine is about1/8″.
Take the tie strip and fold it in half, stitch, clip and turn through.  Close end and stitch (I do this by hand but you can use the machine)
Take the flap piece and fold it in half  and mark with a pin – do the same with the placemat.  Position the flap along the top of the placemat matching the pins and stitch about 1’4″ from the edge.
Take the tie and stitch it to the centre on the placemat side – I didn’t stitch it in the centre but rather about 2/3 of the way along its length. (This will make it easier to tie)
Now all it needs is some knitting needles – roll it up and tie and it is ready to go!
I am really happy with this and I am sure you will be too!!  Maybe you know a knitter – it would make a great gift!!
I hope my friend thinks so anyway!!
Until next time
Nanny xx

Lets Sew Part 7 – Sewing Room Project 1

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Today we will be making the first of our projects – a small storage container – practising the skills of:

  Straight Stitching
Stitching around corners
Clipping corners
Turning through with pointed corners
Top Stitching

I made one of these at my quilting group and thought it suited our needs here perfectly!! 
(Apologies:- I tried to find someone to thank for the creative idea but didn’t have any luck!)

So Let’s Sew!!

From your fabrics, select 2.  We are going to cut a rectangle from each – 7″ x 5″ – I selected a dark and a light from the lovely selection that Louise sent me – thanks Louise!!

If you have a rotary cutter and cutting mat, you will use your rule to measure and cut the rectangles.

Gemma has given some great tips for using your rotary cutter here 

If you don’t have a rotary cutter, TOMG has a great starter pack available  see here and don’t forget that lay-by is available for all orders over $50.00 (great Xmas pressie!! )

Now don’t worry if you don’t have a rotary cutter as you can certainly manage without one – it just takes a little more time!

Take a sheet of paper and measure 7″ along from one corner and mark.



Then measure from the corner along the other side  5″ and mark.


Now move your tape up to the 5″ mark and measure across 7″ and mark – check that it measures 5″ from that mark straight down to the 7″ mark on the edge (mine was spot on!)  If not just adjust.
 I then folded to join the dots
and cut along the folds to get my 7″ x 5″ rectangle
I can now use my ‘pattern’ to cut a rectangle from each of the fabrics. (note that you cut the piece from an edge not the centre of your fat 1/4 )

Now it’s time to sew. 

With right sides together and starting about 3″ from a corner (don’t forget to reverse), sew around the outside, taking care to turn sharply at the corners (remember to leave your needle down, lift the Pressure Foot and turn your fabric, lower the Pressure Foot) and stopping about 2.5″ from where you started with a couple of reverse stitches.


Press and clip the corners


I am going to trim closer by curving slightly – take care not to cut the stitching.  If you do, just go and restitch it in a little further.

Turn to the right side and gently ease the corners out.  You can use any item as your tool – some use a chop stick – I have a wooden skewer that I have filed the sharp point off and a knitting needle!
Don’t push too hard or you might push right through the corner!!

Roll between your thumb and fingers and press remembering to press the seams in where you left the opening.


 
Topstitch all the way around the edge about 1/8″ from the edge – just find a spot on your foot and watch the fabric there – not the needle or use your Stitch in the Ditch foot  (this will close the opening!)

Cut out a piece of paper 3.5″”x1.5″ and centre this on the mat – trace the rectangle and then stitch.


Decide which fabric you want on the outside – I am having the dark –  and then fold from a corner so the adjoining sides are level.

You are now going to stitch from the corner of the sewn inner rectangle at a right-angle to the sides.  Do this for each corner.

Press along the stitching of the rectangle to form the base.

Then we simply turn the corners out to form the trim. 

Taa Daa!!   You now have a sweet little container – I use mine to hold business cards!! 

You can simply make this any size to suit your storage needs, noting that it will need some pellon if you go larger, for support.  I hope you enjoyed making it!!!

What do you think you will use it for?  
I would love to see your photos!!

Until next time
Nanny  xx

Let’s Sew Part 6 – Top stitching

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Good morning!  
Often when we are sewing, we need to do some top-stitching.  I gathered some examples  (these are all store made):


These are the main areas that you would see topstitching used in clothing, but it is also used extensively in bags, journal covers, soft books etc.

You can use the All Purpose Pressure Foot (reminder here) or you might like to try the ‘Stitch in the Ditch’ Foot.

The ‘Stitch in the Ditch’ foot has a little blade that makes it very easy for it to glide along the edge and hence keep your top stitching at an even distance from that edge.
Let’s sew two pieces together to make a seam and then we will top stitch it.

Stitch the seam, press to set the seam and then roll the seam between the finger and thumb. Press.
Attach the Stitch in the Ditch Foot

or attach the all Purpose Pressure Foot

Either way works just as well (I made them different widths so you would know I did two samples!!)  You just have to remember to shift the needle to achieve the distance from the edge that you want.
Well done – that covers the techniques that are needed for the first Sewing Room Project!
Until next time
Nanny 🙂

Lets Sew Part 5 – Straight Stitching

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Good Morning!!
We have now filled our bobbin, threaded the machine, attached the foot for the job and changed the needle – I guess we can’t delay this any longer!!
We are going to use straight stitching.  Betsy has a nice little window where I can see that I have her set to straight stitch – I change the stitch selection by turning the dial on the side.

NANNY TIP:  Get a small scrap of fabric to act as a thread catcher – start sewing on the thread catcher and snip off when done and use over and over!!

Take a strip of fabric, line up the edge of the foot with the edge of the fabric and lower the foot. Watching the edge of the foot, start sewing on the thread catcher and when you move onto the fabric, sew about 3 stitches.  Holding the reverse button, stitch a couple of stitches and then release and sew the line, finishing with a couple of reverse stitches at the end.

NANNY TIP:  DO NOT WATCH THE NEEDLE – WATCH THE EDGE OF YOUR FOOT!!

Snip the thread catcher off and it is ready to go again!

Line the edge of your foot up with the stitch line you just made and go again, remembering to start and finish with a couple of reverse stitches.  Keep practicing and you will soon be confident in sewing a straight line!!

Sometimes we need to sew ‘around corners’, so let’s go!

NANNY TIP:  Don’t start at the corner!

 

Start about 1″-2″ before a corner.  Lower the Pressure foot lining up the edge of the foot with the edge of the fabric and sew till about the same distance from the other side (you may need to slow down a bit – no speed hogs allowed!!)

Use your hand wheel to do the last couple of stitches, ending up with the needle still in the fabric.

Lift the Pressure Foot, turn the fabric and lower the Pressure foot so that it is now ready to sew down the other side.

Keep going until you have completed all corners.

Start again and practice some more!
 

Well done!!

Until next time
Nanny  🙂

 

Lets Sew – Part 4 – Changing the needle

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Good Morning!

Today we need to look at which needle to use.  A general rule is fine threads and needles for fine fabrics, heavier threads and needles for heavier fabrics.
If you have your fat 1/4s, you will have quilting cotton and so we need to use a medium weight needle – size 11(75) – 14(90).  Just like any tools, it is important to have sharp needles – many people don’t change the needle unless it breaks !!!, but it is a good habit to change the needle at least every 8-10 sewing hours or when you start a new project.  A blunt needle can create more problems than it is worth, so start out keeping your machine in ‘top’ condition and ‘she’ will reward you with more trouble free hours of enjoyment!
Changing the needle is a simple operation so let’s do it!

The first thing to do is Turn Off The Power!

Raise the needle to its highest point by turning the Balance Wheel.
Lower the Pressure Foot
Holding the needle in your left hand, turn the needle Clamp Screw toward you until the needle comes free – don’t get carried away or you will screw it right off!!

Take your new needle and insert into the clamp with the flat side away from you (check your manual if different) and push it in as far as it will go. Tighten the Needle Clamp Screw with your fingers and then more firmly. (you will have a small screwdriver in your machine kit)

There you go – I said it was easy!!! 
Now before we get sewing I want to check the size of seams.  In the photo below, I have removed the foot and wound the needle down.  The measurements you see on the Needle Plate and the Hook Cover Plate are the distance from the needle to that mark.

These are here to act as a fabric guide ie the edge of your fabric will move along that line and ensure you have straight, even seams!

Many of the patterns you download have 1/2″ seam allowances and quilters use 1/4″ seams.  I have put a piece of tape along the 1/2″ line to show you an easy way to get used to these measurements.

Warning:  Don’t use packaging tape like this – it lifted the silver from the plate (Oh NOOO!!!!)
Now you just have to thread your new needle and we can sew!
Until next time
Nanny  🙂

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