The first thing I am going to do is, using the largest stitch, sew the side seam on the skirt waistband, using the prescribed 1/2′ seam allowance. I will then fit it around myself and pin the other side seam. I am doing this to check my sizing and all is OK with mine. If you are not sure about your fit, please ask!
I will now follow the instructions as written and tell you of any thoughts, changes etc that I have.
I realise that everyone does not have an overlocker, so I like to use these opportunities to get you to expand your understanding of your machine and what it can do! Rather than zigzagging my seams, I am going to use my overedge foot:
This foot has a series of thin wires – you must ensure you follow your machine directions re the stitch width to avoid the needle hitting the wires. My stitch width has to be set at 5 or more.
I have sewn the seam and using the edge of the Overedge foot to run along the edge of the fabric, I am doing an ‘overlock’ stitch
Just like an overlocker except it doesn’t have blades to trim the seam!!! So press your finished seam towards the waistband and change your foot. I am using my ‘Stitch in the ditch’ foot:
The blade runs along the ‘seam line’ and you set the needle to the distance you want the topstitch to be away from the seam.
Sew the right hand side seam – I decided to trim mine back before finishing:
Take the time to make sure you match your seam lines.
(d) I just used a pin to mark where the teeth finish:
(e) Stop when you reach the pin and do a couple of reverse stitches:
Change your stitch length to the longest (mine is 5) and finish the rest of the seam.
(f) Before pinning the zip as instructed, go to (g) and mark your stitching line (much easier without the zip being there!!) Check that your topstitched seams are meeting:
Pin the zip in place:
Using your largest stitch, baste the zip in place. Change the size of your stitch and attach a zip foot:
Where you start each time, dont do reverse stitches and you will have long threads. Tie them off and with a needle thread them through into the seam cavity for a neat finish!
As I mentioned previously, I didn’t make a waistband binding, but instead made a facing by using the pattern the same way on the fold. I cut the top and side as before and then trimmed the depth of the facing to the width the fabric allowed:
I then placed the facing on the outside of the waistband, right sides together:
At the edge of the zip oening, I folded the seam allowance around the zip to the wrong side of the skirt:
I then stitched the facing to the waistband, starting and finishing with some reverse stitches:
This will give you a nice, neat finish at the zip edge! Press the seam towards the facing:
Understitch using the ‘Stitch in the Ditch ‘ foot again or your general purpose foot.
Now all that is left to do is to fold the edge of the facing over and stitch and hand stitch the facing to catch it at the zip and side seams.
(f) Hem as per instructions and you are done!!!
All we need now is some photos – please share!
Thank you for joining this Sew-A-Long. I hope you are happy with your skirt and that you now have the confidence to try some of the variations.
Until next time
Leave a Reply